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Cambodia has held a special appeal for foreigners. Many of the journalists, tourists and diplomats who visited it in the 1950s and '60s wrote of an idyllic, antique land unsullied by the brutalities of the modern world. Phnom Penh was, it is true, an exquisite riverine city, and its fine white and yellow-ochre buildings, charming squares and café is lent it a French provincial charm that gave it a considerable edge over its tawdry neighbors Bangkok and Saigon. It had not been overwhelmed by the pressures of trade and war; its population was only about 600,000, and there was little sign of the shanty towns of Coca-Cola- can slums in which Thai and Vietnamese peasants eked out a miserable existence. The huge covered market was stacked high with local produce- vegetables, rice and dozens of kinds of fish caught in the many waters of the land. And the countryside, where 90 percent of the people lived in villages built around their Buddhist temples seemed, if anything, even more attractive than the capital.
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