This step provides a short description on each part of the Ramps 1.4RA translation - This step provides a short description on each part of the Ramps 1.4RA Indonesian how to say

This step provides a short descript



This step provides a short description on each part of the Ramps 1.4

RAMPS 1.4 Control Board + 4X A4988 Stepstick Driver Modules

RAMPS is short for "RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield" and the 1.4 is version number. It is the "Heart" of any RepRap Machine. It's actually computational inert in itself, but function like one big interface (expansion board) for adding all kinds of stuff, like stepper drivers, motors, hot end and so on, to our Mega 2560 board, which is the brains in the operation.

RAMPS should be powered with a 12V Power supply which can supply a minimum of 5A, an additional 11A if you plan to use a Heated Bed.

For more detailed information on RAMPS 1.4 refer to the RepRap Wiki:

http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 or Arduino Mega Pololu Shield
Description

I choose the RAMPS solution as everything is pretty much jammed into this addon shield to the Arduino Mega 2560 R3 board with tittle or no need to add all sorts of Electronics components.

The RAMPS board itself function as the base for controlling everything we need in regards to 3D printing: extruder, motors, heat-bed, hot end, temperaturs, fans and even an LCD display you can buy as an addon.

I later bought an LCD and it is really nice :)

In order to control our stepper motors we need the small A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Board.

Feel free to read the A4988 datasheet. I must admit I don't understand much of that datasheet.

Warning: Connecting or disconnecting a stepper motor while the driver is powered can destroy the driver. (More generally, rewiring anything while it is powered is asking for trouble.)

Features of driver boards.

These Things comes with a list a mile long, but here are the important ones for now.

•Maximum output current is 1A - this makes it ideal for small stepper motors and it is the reason why you might have seen other 3D printers with much larger Motor Drive boards. They can provide up to 2a safely though.
•Five different step resolutions: full-step, half-step, quarter-step, eighth-step, and sixteenth-step
•Adjustable current control lets you set the maximum current output with a potentiometer, which lets you use voltages above your stepper motor’s rated voltage toachieve higher step rates.
•Over-temperature thermal shutdown, under-voltage lockout, and crossover-current protection
•Short-to-ground and shorted-load protection

Before usage / Preparing for usage

Check for any bent pins or other obvious damage. If you find any pins that has been bendt some, you can in almost all cases straighten them up using your fingernail or similar small tool.

The motor drive boards are each placed on two rows of female connectors. Between these connectors are 6 male pins with room for a total of 3 jumpers. We are not going to use any jumpers for our setup, as we use full steps. This is the place to make any such settings though. See diagram in image for all configurations options.

Gently install 4 of our driver boards in X, Y, Z and E0. The small potentiometers are placed farthest away from the power-input connectors. Leave E1 empty. After installing the driver boards you should put on the small heatsinks that came with the package.
Wiring up

One of the very appealing reasons to use this particular board is how we connect it with a few 12v input wires, as previously described in the Powersupply step, and then everything connected to the Ramps 1.4 is powered through it, so we do not have to deal with individual power leads or custom powerbricks or any of the other multitude of solutions I've seen.

See the images where you will find the custom Ramps 1.4 wiring image I made for this.

For a more general wiring manual, I can highly recommend the one at nextdayreprap.co.uk.

The downside is the 1-2 amp limitation of the driver boards.

After Building my real printer I bought 2x SilentStepSticks for my X and Y axis. Worth every penny, but don't go spend Money on that before you get that far - if you choose to do so
I also made an Instructable for those Sticks: Install and configure SilentStepStick in RAMPS - TMC2100 Schrittmotortreiber
Power input

As we just discussed, the power input is simply two 12v mains. One can Draw up to 11A on 12v and the other up to 5A on 12V. We are not going anywhere near this, but it is nice to know as it does put a limit on what we can connect to this board.
Power output

Every item connected to the board is powered through one of their respective wires. It is very important that we double check every connection we make to avoid short-wiring it.

The D8, D9 and D10 are terminals for DC output to our hot-bed, fan for hot-end and hot-end.
Stepper motors

Our DVD stepper motors, which we color-coded in pairs, must be connected in pairs. Ie. first you connect the 2 blacks on pin 2B and 2A (first two pins), and the two yellow wires on pin 1A and 1B (two last pins).

If the motor drives the platform the wrong way, you can shift around the pairs. IMPORTANT!!: everything must be entirely shut down and powered off. Meaning power-plug out of wall, 12V input power connector removed from the Ramps 1.4 and USB plug unplugged before you unplug any pins on the Ramps board or this is a sure way to fry the Ramps board, or at least the Stepper driver board.

You can invert the direction in the firmware instead. Described in the next step of this instrucable.
Temperature probes

We connect our Temperature probes, to the pins marked with T0 for our Hot-end and T1 for our Hot-bed. You can add a third one to the T2 if you feel like it.
Endstops - Home posistion

You might have none, 3 or 6, or some other number.

Remember how I talked about the home placement? When you sit in front of the 3D printer and look at it:

The hot-end nozzle must be as close as possible to the hot-bed's edge closest to you and to the left hand edge of the hot-bed.

The nozzle must be as close as possible to the bed without actually touching it. You can test it by placing a standard print paper on the hot-bed. When you need to give a slight tug or two to remove the paper, then the nozzle is down far enough.

You can fine tune these things in the software.
Endstops - When the home position has been achieved.

In this posistion we install our endstops. Meaning up install them in a place that will activate them when your printer is at home posistion.

You do not have to use endstops, but if you do not you might have to do a manual calibration before each print. At least for this little printer.

If you have more endstops you can place them in the MAX end.

If you have all 6 endsops installed correctly the printer is self calibrating as long as everything is screwed down tight and stays in place.
Real self-calibration can only be achieved if you Invest in items like a Proximity sensor or Force Sensors, but that is for another instructable.



0/5000
From: -
To: -
Results (Indonesian) 1: [Copy]
Copied!
This step provides a short description on each part of the Ramps 1.4RAMPS 1.4 Control Board + 4X A4988 Stepstick Driver ModulesRAMPS is short for "RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield" and the 1.4 is version number. It is the "Heart" of any RepRap Machine. It's actually computational inert in itself, but function like one big interface (expansion board) for adding all kinds of stuff, like stepper drivers, motors, hot end and so on, to our Mega 2560 board, which is the brains in the operation.RAMPS should be powered with a 12V Power supply which can supply a minimum of 5A, an additional 11A if you plan to use a Heated Bed.For more detailed information on RAMPS 1.4 refer to the RepRap Wiki:http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 or Arduino Mega Pololu ShieldDescriptionI choose the RAMPS solution as everything is pretty much jammed into this addon shield to the Arduino Mega 2560 R3 board with tittle or no need to add all sorts of Electronics components.The RAMPS board itself function as the base for controlling everything we need in regards to 3D printing: extruder, motors, heat-bed, hot end, temperaturs, fans and even an LCD display you can buy as an addon.I later bought an LCD and it is really nice :)In order to control our stepper motors we need the small A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Board.Feel free to read the A4988 datasheet. I must admit I don't understand much of that datasheet.Warning: Connecting or disconnecting a stepper motor while the driver is powered can destroy the driver. (More generally, rewiring anything while it is powered is asking for trouble.)Features of driver boards.These Things comes with a list a mile long, but here are the important ones for now. •Maximum output current is 1A - this makes it ideal for small stepper motors and it is the reason why you might have seen other 3D printers with much larger Motor Drive boards. They can provide up to 2a safely though. •Five different step resolutions: full-step, half-step, quarter-step, eighth-step, and sixteenth-step •Adjustable current control lets you set the maximum current output with a potentiometer, which lets you use voltages above your stepper motor’s rated voltage toachieve higher step rates. •Over-temperature thermal shutdown, under-voltage lockout, and crossover-current protection •Short-to-ground and shorted-load protectionBefore usage / Preparing for usageCheck for any bent pins or other obvious damage. If you find any pins that has been bendt some, you can in almost all cases straighten them up using your fingernail or similar small tool.The motor drive boards are each placed on two rows of female connectors. Between these connectors are 6 male pins with room for a total of 3 jumpers. We are not going to use any jumpers for our setup, as we use full steps. This is the place to make any such settings though. See diagram in image for all configurations options.Gently install 4 of our driver boards in X, Y, Z and E0. The small potentiometers are placed farthest away from the power-input connectors. Leave E1 empty. After installing the driver boards you should put on the small heatsinks that came with the package.Wiring upOne of the very appealing reasons to use this particular board is how we connect it with a few 12v input wires, as previously described in the Powersupply step, and then everything connected to the Ramps 1.4 is powered through it, so we do not have to deal with individual power leads or custom powerbricks or any of the other multitude of solutions I've seen.See the images where you will find the custom Ramps 1.4 wiring image I made for this.For a more general wiring manual, I can highly recommend the one at nextdayreprap.co.uk.The downside is the 1-2 amp limitation of the driver boards.After Building my real printer I bought 2x SilentStepSticks for my X and Y axis. Worth every penny, but don't go spend Money on that before you get that far - if you choose to do soI also made an Instructable for those Sticks: Install and configure SilentStepStick in RAMPS - TMC2100 SchrittmotortreiberPower inputAs we just discussed, the power input is simply two 12v mains. One can Draw up to 11A on 12v and the other up to 5A on 12V. We are not going anywhere near this, but it is nice to know as it does put a limit on what we can connect to this board.Power outputEvery item connected to the board is powered through one of their respective wires. It is very important that we double check every connection we make to avoid short-wiring it.The D8, D9 and D10 are terminals for DC output to our hot-bed, fan for hot-end and hot-end.Stepper motorsOur DVD stepper motors, which we color-coded in pairs, must be connected in pairs. Ie. first you connect the 2 blacks on pin 2B and 2A (first two pins), and the two yellow wires on pin 1A and 1B (two last pins).If the motor drives the platform the wrong way, you can shift around the pairs. IMPORTANT!!: everything must be entirely shut down and powered off. Meaning power-plug out of wall, 12V input power connector removed from the Ramps 1.4 and USB plug unplugged before you unplug any pins on the Ramps board or this is a sure way to fry the Ramps board, or at least the Stepper driver board.You can invert the direction in the firmware instead. Described in the next step of this instrucable.Temperature probesWe connect our Temperature probes, to the pins marked with T0 for our Hot-end and T1 for our Hot-bed. You can add a third one to the T2 if you feel like it.Endstops - Home posistionYou might have none, 3 or 6, or some other number.Remember how I talked about the home placement? When you sit in front of the 3D printer and look at it:The hot-end nozzle must be as close as possible to the hot-bed's edge closest to you and to the left hand edge of the hot-bed.The nozzle must be as close as possible to the bed without actually touching it. You can test it by placing a standard print paper on the hot-bed. When you need to give a slight tug or two to remove the paper, then the nozzle is down far enough.You can fine tune these things in the software.Endstops - When the home position has been achieved.In this posistion we install our endstops. Meaning up install them in a place that will activate them when your printer is at home posistion.You do not have to use endstops, but if you do not you might have to do a manual calibration before each print. At least for this little printer.If you have more endstops you can place them in the MAX end.If you have all 6 endsops installed correctly the printer is self calibrating as long as everything is screwed down tight and stays in place.Real self-calibration can only be achieved if you Invest in items like a Proximity sensor or Force Sensors, but that is for another instructable.
Being translated, please wait..
Results (Indonesian) 2:[Copy]
Copied!


Langkah ini memberikan penjelasan singkat pada setiap bagian dari Landai 1,4 Ramps 1.4 Pengendalian Badan + 4X A4988 Stepstick driver Modul Ramps adalah singkatan dari "RepRap Arduino mega Pololu Shield" dan 1.4 adalah nomor versi. Ini adalah "Heart" dari setiap mesin RepRap. Ini lembam sebenarnya komputasi dalam dirinya sendiri, tetapi berfungsi seperti satu antarmuka besar (ekspansi board) untuk menambahkan segala macam hal, seperti driver stepper, motor, akhir panas dan sebagainya, untuk kami mega 2560 papan, yang merupakan otak di operasi. Ramps harus didukung dengan Power supply 12V yang dapat memasok minimal 5A, sebuah 11A tambahan jika Anda berencana untuk menggunakan Heated B. Untuk informasi lebih rinci tentang Ramps 1,4 mengacu pada RepRap Wiki: http: //www.reprap. org / wiki / RAMPS_1.4 atau Arduino mega Pololu Perisai Deskripsi saya memilih solusi Ramps karena semuanya cukup banyak macet ke addon ini perisai untuk Mega 2560 R3 papan Arduino dengan judul atau tidak perlu menambahkan segala macam komponen elektronik. landai dewan itu sendiri berfungsi sebagai dasar untuk mengendalikan segala sesuatu yang kita butuhkan dalam hal pencetakan 3D. extruder, motor, panas-tidur, akhir panas, temperaturs, penggemar dan bahkan layar LCD Anda dapat membeli sebagai addon Saya kemudian membeli sebuah LCD dan benar-benar baik :) Untuk mengendalikan motor stepper, kita perlu Driver Dewan A4988 Motor Stepper kecil. Jangan ragu untuk membaca datasheet A4988. Saya harus mengakui saya tidak mengerti banyak yang datasheet. Peringatan: Menghubungkan atau memutuskan hubungan motor langkah sementara pengemudi bertenaga dapat menghancurkan pengemudi. (. Secara umum, rewiring apa pun sementara itu didukung adalah mencari masalah). Fitur papan pengemudi Hal ini dilengkapi dengan daftar mil panjang, tapi di sini adalah orang-orang penting untuk saat ini. • Output maksimum saat ini 1A - ini membuat ideal untuk motor stepper kecil dan itu adalah alasan mengapa Anda mungkin telah melihat printer 3D lainnya dengan jauh lebih besar Drive Motor papan. Mereka dapat menyediakan hingga 2a aman sekalipun. • Lima resolusi langkah yang berbeda: penuh langkah, setengah langkah, kuartal-langkah, delapan langkah, dan keenam belas-langkah • kontrol saat Adjustable memungkinkan Anda mengatur arus keluaran maksimum dengan potensiometer, yang memungkinkan Anda menggunakan tegangan di atas motor Anda dinilai tegangan toachieve tarif langkah lebih tinggi. • Over-suhu thermal shutdown, di bawah tegangan lockout, dan perlindungan Crossover-saat • perlindungan Short-ke-darat dan korsleting beban Sebelum penggunaan / Mempersiapkan penggunaan memeriksa setiap pin bengkok atau kerusakan jelas lainnya. Jika Anda menemukan pin yang telah bendt beberapa, Anda dapat di hampir semua kasus meluruskan mereka menggunakan kuku atau alat kecil serupa. Papan drive motor masing-masing ditempatkan di dua baris konektor perempuan. Antara konektor ini 6 laki-laki pin dengan ruang untuk total 3 jumper. Kami tidak akan menggunakan jumper untuk pengaturan kami, karena kami menggunakan langkah-langkah penuh. Ini adalah tempat untuk membuat pengaturan seperti sekalipun. Lihat diagram di gambar untuk semua pilihan konfigurasi. Menginstal lembut 4 dari papan sopir kami di X, Y, Z dan E0. Para potensiometer kecil ditempatkan paling jauh dari konektor power-masukan. Tinggalkan E1 kosong. Setelah menginstal papan driver yang Anda harus meletakkan pada heatsink kecil yang datang dengan paket. Wiring up Salah satu alasan yang sangat menarik untuk menggunakan papan khusus ini adalah bagaimana kita menghubungkannya dengan beberapa kabel masukan 12v, seperti yang dijelaskan sebelumnya pada langkah Powersupply , dan kemudian segala sesuatu yang berhubungan dengan Landai 1.4 didukung melalui itu, jadi kita tidak harus berurusan dengan lead kekuasaan individu atau powerbricks kustom atau salah satu banyak lainnya solusi yang pernah kulihat. Lihat gambar di mana Anda akan menemukan kebiasaan landai 1,4 kabel gambar yang saya buat untuk ini. Untuk pengguna kabel yang lebih umum, saya bisa sangat merekomendasikan satu di nextdayreprap.co.uk. downside adalah pembatasan 1-2 amp dari papan driver. Setelah Membangun printer asli saya saya beli 2x SilentStepSticks untuk X dan Y axis saya. Bernilai setiap sen, tapi jangan pergi menghabiskan Uang di bahwa sebelum Anda sampai sejauh itu - jika Anda memilih untuk melakukannya saya juga membuat Instructable bagi mereka Sticks: Instal dan mengkonfigurasi SilentStepStick di Ramps - TMC2100 Schrittmotortreiber Daya masukan Seperti yang baru saja kita bahas, masukan daya hanya dua 12v listrik. Satu dapat Menggambar hingga 11A di 12v dan yang lainnya hingga 5A pada 12V. Kami tidak akan mendekati ini, tapi itu bagus untuk mengetahui seperti itu meletakkan batas pada apa yang bisa kita terhubung ke papan ini. Daya keluaran Setiap item yang terhubung ke papan didukung melalui salah satu kabel masing-masing. Hal ini sangat penting bahwa kita periksa setiap koneksi kita membuat untuk menghindari pendek kabel itu. The D8, D9 dan D10 adalah terminal untuk DC output ke hot-tempat tidur kami, kipas untuk panas-end dan panas-end. Stepper motor DVD kami stepper motor, yang kami warna-kode berpasangan, harus terhubung berpasangan. Yaitu. pertama Anda menghubungkan 2 kulit hitam pada pin 2B dan 2A (pertama dua pin), dan dua kabel kuning pada pin 1A dan 1B (dua pin terakhir). Jika motor drive platform dengan cara yang salah, Anda dapat menggeser sekitar pasang. PENTING !!: segala sesuatu harus sepenuhnya ditutup dan dimatikan. Berarti kekuatan-plug keluar dari dinding, konektor daya input 12V dihapus dari Landai 1.4 dan USB konektor dicabut sebelum Anda mencabut pin apapun di papan Landai atau ini adalah cara yang pasti untuk menggoreng papan Ramps, atau setidaknya papan pengemudi Stepper. Anda dapat membalikkan arah di firmware sebaliknya. Dijelaskan pada langkah berikutnya dari instrucable ini. Probe Suhu Kami menghubungkan probe Suhu kami, untuk pin yang ditandai dengan T0 untuk kami Hot-end dan T1 untuk kami Hot-tidur. Anda dapat menambahkan yang ketiga untuk T2 jika Anda merasa seperti itu. Endstops - Depan posistion Anda mungkin tidak punya, 3 atau 6, atau beberapa nomor lainnya. Ingat bagaimana saya berbicara tentang penempatan rumah? Ketika Anda duduk di depan printer 3D dan melihat itu:. Nozel panas-end harus sedekat mungkin ke tepi panas tidur yang paling dekat dengan Anda dan ke tepi kiri panas-tidur nozzle tersebut harus sedekat mungkin ke tempat tidur tanpa benar-benar menyentuhnya. Anda dapat mengujinya dengan menempatkan kertas cetak standar pada hot-tidur. Ketika Anda perlu memberikan sedikit tarikan atau dua untuk menghapus kertas, maka nosel turun cukup jauh. Anda dapat fine tune hal-hal ini dalam perangkat lunak. Endstops -. Ketika posisi rumah yang telah dicapai dalam posistion ini kita install endstops kami . Arti up menginstal mereka di tempat yang akan mengaktifkan mereka ketika printer Anda di rumah posistion. Anda tidak harus menggunakan endstops, tetapi jika Anda tidak Anda mungkin harus melakukan kalibrasi manual sebelum setiap cetak. Setidaknya untuk printer kecil ini. Jika Anda memiliki lebih endstops Anda dapat menempatkan mereka di akhir MAX. Jika Anda memiliki semua 6 endsops terpasang dengan benar printer kalibrasi diri selama semuanya disekrup ketat dan tetap di tempat. Estat diri kalibrasi hanya dapat dicapai jika Anda Berinvestasi dalam item seperti sensor Proximity atau Angkatan Sensor, tapi itu untuk instructable lain.































































































Being translated, please wait..
 
Other languages
The translation tool support: Afrikaans, Albanian, Amharic, Arabic, Armenian, Azerbaijani, Basque, Belarusian, Bengali, Bosnian, Bulgarian, Catalan, Cebuano, Chichewa, Chinese, Chinese Traditional, Corsican, Croatian, Czech, Danish, Detect language, Dutch, English, Esperanto, Estonian, Filipino, Finnish, French, Frisian, Galician, Georgian, German, Greek, Gujarati, Haitian Creole, Hausa, Hawaiian, Hebrew, Hindi, Hmong, Hungarian, Icelandic, Igbo, Indonesian, Irish, Italian, Japanese, Javanese, Kannada, Kazakh, Khmer, Kinyarwanda, Klingon, Korean, Kurdish (Kurmanji), Kyrgyz, Lao, Latin, Latvian, Lithuanian, Luxembourgish, Macedonian, Malagasy, Malay, Malayalam, Maltese, Maori, Marathi, Mongolian, Myanmar (Burmese), Nepali, Norwegian, Odia (Oriya), Pashto, Persian, Polish, Portuguese, Punjabi, Romanian, Russian, Samoan, Scots Gaelic, Serbian, Sesotho, Shona, Sindhi, Sinhala, Slovak, Slovenian, Somali, Spanish, Sundanese, Swahili, Swedish, Tajik, Tamil, Tatar, Telugu, Thai, Turkish, Turkmen, Ukrainian, Urdu, Uyghur, Uzbek, Vietnamese, Welsh, Xhosa, Yiddish, Yoruba, Zulu, Language translation.

Copyright ©2025 I Love Translation. All reserved.

E-mail: